So again, my husband repeated his repair process. Another issue is that not only will the installer not respond (and frankly, he has lost our trust), we are finding it difficult to find someone local willing to step in and help. Because latex and some silicone caulk will take paint, you can use white caulk and paint it to match any place you're using it. He grouted all changes in plane except for using a matching siliconized sanded acrylic caulk around the shower floor perimeter and in the niches. The only time I will use grout for a plane change is when I am using epoxy grout. Really. Apologies for the long query, but I wanted to provide you with as much info as possible. The two materials are sometimes combined and sold as siliconized latex or latex plus silicone. It a foam so it has time to work rather than just run off. I let the solution stand on the tile & grout for 30 minutes and scrubbed for about 5 minutes. However for the change of plane joints in the shower, I would want to use the colored silicone caulk such as at the corners and between the walls and the shower pan/tray. Thanks for the speedy reply to my earlier comments, and for sharing your expertise. I use 0000 grade steelwool to clean water stains on doors. My question: Can the caulk (GE Silicone II) be applied over this haze/will it adhere and be an ok seal? Some plumbers tell me caulk isn’t needed. When using silicone caulk that can't be painted, choose the color that most closely matches the surrounding area, or select clear caulk for an unobtrusive look. The better solution, and the one I recommend, is to remove ALL the grout in every change of plane then silicone them all leaving weep holes.The location of at least one of those should be close to that corner. Yes, the mesh tape with AD is fine. Under will be thinset/mesh tape (might fabric these also). Keep in mind, however, that it is a perfect spot for mold to grow. My favorite regular grout is currently laticrete’s permacolor select. Regular acrylic caulk will lose it’s elasticity much faster than silicone will, which means it needs to be replaced sooner. Provided your waterproofing BEHIND the tile is properly tied into the tub so you have a fully waterproof transition from the wall down into the tub you don’t need to have anything there. My son told me all the cool kids are doin’ it! I want to use caulk, but thought you had to grout underneath, oops. You can still make weep holes in those changes of plane. If your wall moves your grout will eventually crack – it’s that simple. Your walls and the framing of your shower must be absolutely rock solid. In a sealed system (tiled floor as well) it is normally behind all the tile, but it still ends up at the drain. When applied properly, it can prevent water, bugs or air from entering your home. Finally, I watched the video by laticrete on how to install the latasil and they were using some type of “gasket” in the changes of plane prior to the latasil. There is a tool for this and I believe you can buy them at Home Depot. Link to Lowe's Home Improvement Home Page Lowe's Credit Cards Order ... For caulking around sinks, tubs, showers, countertops and ceramic tile floors. I’m a bit meticulous and a perfectionist, not sure that really makes much difference helping solve your issue tho. Unlike grout you are able to use caulk in a corner where tiles are butted against each other. Good Luck! My least favorite base are the prefab fiberglass. The nuclear option is to remove the bottom row of tile, figure out what the hell is preventing the water from reaching the floor, remove it and rebuild it correctly. The water WILL get behind the tile. Grout packed in there will do this (it will slow it tremendously, at least, not necessarily seal it off), but caulk or silicone FILLING those gaps will also do that. – if you ask a hundred different professionals you will more than likely receive fifty of each answer. Inspirational ideas and expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home renovation, home repair, and DIY. Was leaning towards the Mapei Flexcolor CQ or Fusion Pro. I plan on removing the thick grout around the window and replace it with 100% silicone caulk ONLY. Altho if it’s at the shower base level that may not be an option. Click to get the latest Buzzing content. I’m going with Laticrete 1600 Unsanded with the 1776 Enhancer and using Latisil in the corners/change of plan. The fourth is glass. Here are some of the main types of specialty caulks and their key features. Do you have a traditional liner mud bed (the two layers with a liner between)? Would like some sort of shelf. Also, after removing the cracked grout, do I need to clean the gap between the tiles with a mold remover or some cleaner and let it dry before caulking? I started my project at Target. You can silicone immediately after grouting. Would we risk our tile cracking over time? My installer will never work with this product again. still ok? It also keeps stuff out of that joint – stuff like mold or spaghetti sauce…. It sounds to me like that particular corner (and perhaps the entire floor perimeter) has silicone or something trapping the water above the floor. Caulk comes in two forms: a cartridge or a squeeze tube. 1) you can not caulk or grout over existing grout. It’s normal. But is it okay to do this? Again, I let the solution stand on the tile & grout for 30 minutes and scoured for 5 minutes. Trying to stay away from epoxy grout. As far as the ‘dam’, you’re correct, that’s why you need weep holes. It’s not the technically proper way, but it does get the water to the drain and doesn’t trap it. Here’s how to fix it: Locations of weep holes in showers, Click here to get an instruction manual for your waterproofing installation. Sadly, in our case, it seems that the water was not properly making its way behind/under the tile to the drain, and thus after time, forcing its way past the grout (or sanded caulk) in that one corner. The only thing you’re trying to do is give the water a specific place to exit the wall. GE All Purpose Silicone 1 10.1-oz Clear Silicone Caulk, GE Advanced Silicone 2 10.1-oz Clear Silicone Caulk, GE Advanced Silicone 2 10.1-oz White Silicone Caulk, DAP Alex Plus 10.1-oz White Paintable Latex Caulk, GE Advanced Silicone 2 2.8-oz Clear Silicone Caulk, DAP Alex Painter'S 10.1-oz White Paintable Latex Caulk, DAP Alex Plus 12-Pack 10.1-oz White Paintable Latex Caulk, DAP Dynaflex 230 10.1-oz White Paintable Latex Caulk, DAP Alex Fast Dry 10.1-oz White Paintable Latex Caulk, GE Tub and Tile Silicone 1 10.1-oz White Silicone Caulk, Link to Lowe's Home Improvement Home Page, Weakens in extreme temperatures or sunlight, Also called painters caulk or latex/acrylic caulk, Only some can be painted (check the label), More flexible and holds up to extreme temperatures and sunlight, Works for gaps that expand, contract or stay constant, Attaches two pieces together and fills gaps, Prevents cracking as surfaces expand and contract, Fills cracks in parking lots, driveways and other asphalt surfaces, Resists stains from gas, oil and de-icing salts, Can be exposed to water shortly after application, Seals separations around wires, pipes, HVAC ducts and vents, Used for chimney/fireplace or other framing gaps, Made of special material rated for its ability to block fire, Used around roof vents, gutters, flashing, downspouts and other metal joints, Seals leaks and cracks on stucco, mortar, stone, concrete and brick, Flexible, waterproof and mildew-resistant, Fills gaps on large joints (1/8 inch or bigger), Butt up to and match preexisting tile/sanded grout. In my opinion the best window cleaner out is Sprayway. Why are some pros so against epoxy in the corners? As to whether or not it’s needed: Caulk or silicone is not TECHNICALLY needed, as it doesn’t do anything in regards to waterproofing. You seem pretty confident that epoxy will be okay in the corners. Normally prime first then caulk, but it can be done before the caulking. The first time my husband (as advised by the contractor, who does not live locally) dug out the wet grout (Mapei, sanded), allowed the space to dry for several days, replaced the grout and let it cure for two days, then applied sealer and allowed it to dry for two more days. The problem is that there is grout haze at the bottom edge of the wall tiles from where I tried to patch up the old grout in the past. You want to use silicone. Concrete moves, (the ground beneath it) that’s why it has expansion joints – to control where the movement goes. However, I wonder how much it costs to fix cracked grout as you will need to repair it quickly to avoid water seeping through the cracks. Also do I caulk/silicone changes of plane before grouting or vice versa? You MAY get away with the tile to tub transition, but if there is excess movement and you have an acrylic tub the tub may actually end up cracking before the tile. I am using the permacolor grout for my shower. Best HD/Lowe’s grout suggestion for those and I think I’m set. This would give you the option to have either a plumber or a different installer or contractor cut the dry wall on the backside to investigate what the issue might be. 3)there is sanded caulk and non sanded caulk – you can purchase to match your grout color. I hope you find a good solution. That would be my suggestion at present, see if that solves the issue. A weep hole in the bathroom, kitchen and outside the home silicone isn’t paintable and there is grout you. 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